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Introduction to Xmods

Xmods most Frequently Asked Questions

'Tips and Tricks' to tune your Xmod?

Xmods Manuals

Crest Spin Brush (SB) Motor Modification

Upgrades for your Xmod

'Builder's Corner' Reader's rides

'Review Section' Info on parts and vendors

'Motor Guide'

Xmod Evo Models

Evo v.s. Xmod

Upgrades for your Xmod Evo

Evo's most Frequently Asked Questions

'PimpMyMod' section

Xmods Frequently Asked Questions

Xmod specifications

  • Scale 1/28th
  • Fully proportional steering
  • Fully proportional electronic throttle
  • Replaceable parts
  • Upgradable parts
  • Four wheel independent suspension
  • All wheel drive option

Motor FAQ
To see what the typical speed for different motors and gear combinations are click Here

Motor Components:

  • Housing - XMODS use a Series 130 Housing and this cannot be changed without extensive modification to the motor mounting system.
  • Endcap - This is normally plastic and holds the brushes onto the housing.
  • Armature - This is the "shaft" of the motor that contains the windings of the motor and the commutator.
  • Commutator - This is the metal plates that transfer the electrical energy from the brush into the windings on the armature.
  • Brushes - These are usually carbon and transfer electrical energy from the wires going to the motor to the armature.
  • Magnets - These provide a magnetic field for the armature to pull/push against to cause the motor to turn. These can either be Ferrite or Neodymium.
  • Capacitors - The XMOD motors have 2 capacitors soldered to the motor. The smaller, tan disc capacitor is soldered between the housing and negative lead to bleed off any RF that the housing or wiring may absorb. The larger black, cylindrical electrolytic capacitor is there to reduce electrical surges from damaging the brushes by arching.

Motor upgrades:

  • Ball Bearing Housing - By switching to a ball-bearing housing, you make the armature spin more freely than a standard bushing housing thus allowing more power to transfer to the wheels.
  • Neodymium Magnets - If your motor is equipped with Ferrite magnets, you can upgrade to Neodymium to provide more torque. Please note that doing this will reduce top speed unless the armature is re-wound to compensate for the stronger magnetic field.
  • Balanced Armature - Similar to the Ball-Bearing Housing upgrade, this reduces parasitic drag and thus makes the motor more efficient.
  • Carbon Brushes - Some motors are equipped with metal brushes and do not provide a very large contact patch. Carbon brushes "mold" to the shape of the commutator and allow for more contact area and thus allow greater current flow by reducing impedance in the connection.
  • Heatsink - Performance motors will tend to generate more heat than the stock motor. More current = More energy and therefore it is released in power and heat. Using a metal heatsink such as that provided in the Stage 2 Upgrade will help extend motor life. It is also advisable to put a thin coat of thermal grease between the motor housing and the heatsink.


  • A "FET" is a "Field-Effect Transistor" that is used to drive your electric motor. Think of it as a nozzle on an aerosol can. If you apply a small pressure on top of the nozzle, a larger pressure shoots paint out of the front of the nozzle. A FET does the same thing ... when you apply a small current to the Gate (via the throttle), it allows a large current to flow out of the Source to the motor.
  • If you just plan on running the Radio Shack Stage 1, 2, or "soon-to-be-released" 3 motors, you do not need to upgrade your FET! However, if you purchase a performance motor that has modified windings on the armature, you may need to replace the FET to maximize performance. The reason is by modifying the windings, you decrease the impedance of the motor therefore requiring more current to drive it.
  • FET stacking is common and "doubles" the current capacity of the FET. If you had a stock 3.5A FET, by stacking you now have a 7A FET! BUT ... the ONLY way to do this on an XMOD is to cut-away the FET heatsink and poke the stacked FET's through the bottom of the chassis. By removing the heatsink, your FET will get extremely HOT! If you don't believe me, stack them, run it for 30 minutes then try to touch them! By running them hot, you reduce their efficiency and A - you reduce the amount of current they can handle, and B- you reduce their lifespan. So, while it can be done, it is NOT ADVISED unless you plan to change your FET's frequently!

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